4194365 - Effect of ultramarine blue on the color of powder and stick foundations

Makeup foundations for all skin colors traditionally contain FDA-approved red, yellow, and black iron oxide, mixed with white pigments, either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. To create darker shades for skin of color consumers, darker foundations contain a larger amount of black iron oxide, which can lead to a displeasing gray cast on the skin. While this is not a concern in lighter foundations due to the lower pigment load, the range of colors and undertones could be expanded in light foundations.
We evaluated the effect of another FDA-approved cosmetic color additive, ultramarine blue, as a substitute for black iron oxide in loose powder and stick foundations. Twenty loose powder foundations and eighteen stick foundations were formulated, including both darker and lighter shades.
Products’ color was evaluated objectively with a spectrophotometer (Konika Minolta CM5), and visually on Lenata paper in the form of press-downs and disks and on human skin in a small consumer study.
Visual evaluation and L*a*b* values indicated that the effect of ultramarine blue was detectable in both foundation groups. Ultramarine blue created tones that were redder in hue and it decreased the apparent gray cast in dark foundations. This study provides examples of how to create more inclusive foundation lines for consumers as diversity and inclusivity initiatives are increasing worldwide.