Foundations designed for dark skin often contain a high concentration of black iron oxide, which can result in an undesirable "ashy" appearance. Additionally, opacifiers like titanium dioxide, used to enhance coverage, can further intensify this appearance. This issue is less common in lighter foundations due to their lower pigment content. However, there is a growing need to enhance the range of undertones available in foundations catering to both lighter and darker skin tones, reflecting increasing consumer demand for improved aesthetics and undertone diversity in the cosmetic industry.

This study evaluated and compared the effects of ultramarine blue (UB) versus black iron oxide (B) and titanium dioxide (T) versus zinc oxide (Z), and assessed the hue-neutralizing potential of UB in dark and light loose powder foundations. Nine formulations for darker skin tones were formulated by varying the ratios of B to UB and Z to T from 0% to 100%. Twenty-four formulations for dark and light skin tones incorporated UB at 2-10% and 0.2-1%, respectively, to evaluate the hue-neutralizing potential of this pigment.

Color assessment included spectrophotometric analysis, visual evaluation on Leneta paper, and small-scale consumer testing on human skin. A survey was conducted to assess consumer challenges in shade matching, retail experiences, and satisfaction with undertone availability.

Adjusting the B/UB ratio (from 100/0 to 0/100) significantly reduced gray tones in darker foundations, with L*a*b* values confirming color balance improvements. Increasing UB content reduced red hues in warm undertones, developing blue hues ideal for neutral-to-cool undertones in dark and light foundations. The combination of Z with T further minimized gray cast, overall enhancing aesthetics in dark foundations. Consumer survey results highlighted ongoing difficulties in foundation matching, reinforcing the need for expanded undertone offerings.

This study demonstrates that UB and Z effectively reduced ashy appearances in darker foundations and offered new possibilities for improving undertone matching across all skin tones. These findings provide valuable insights for formulating inclusive cosmetic products that better meet consumer needs.

Raihaanah Safee

Appearances